Nick Savage journeys through southern Val d’Orcia in Tuscany with his family, drawing from the writings of DH Lawrence and the beliefs of the ancient Etruscans to examine loss, continuity, and the pull of the unseen. His daughter’s claim of hearing a voice in the olive orchard sparks a journey of exploration and reflection.
The English author DH Lawrence suspected something otherworldly moved through these lands, and his poem The Ship of Death penned in 1927 after visiting the Etruscan necropolis at Cerveteri, resonates with Savage’s experience. The poem’s words, “Now it is autumn and the falling fruit / and the long journey towards oblivion,” echo through the area.
Exploring Val d’Orcia
Savage’s journey takes him through the rural valley of Val d’Orcia, which follows the course of the Orcia river from Siena in the north to Monte Amiata and the border with Lazio and Umbria in the south. The area was designated a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2004 as an outstanding example of a Renaissance-era agricultural environment.
The southern part of Val d’Orcia, where Savage stays, is characterized by its wildness and emptiness, particularly in the autumn months. The town of Sarteano, with its medieval architecture and Etruscan roots, feels noticeably less curated than its more photographed neighbors.
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The Etruscan View of Death
The Etruscans’ attitude towards death is a significant aspect of their culture, and Savage explores this through their art and tombs. The Etruscans’ art and tombs point to a culture that refused to isolate death, instead absorbing it into the same current as everything else – life continuing, altered yet unbroken.
This Etruscan view of death as a charged transition resonates with Savage’s own experience of loss. He reflects on how the Etruscans ritualized this crossing, while in modern western lives, people find their own ways of negotiating it, often without realizing.
Personal Reflections
Savage’s journey is also a personal one, as he reflects on his own experiences of loss, including the miscarriages he and his wife suffered. He recalls his father’s advice to be supportive and understand that it may take longer for his wife to come to terms with the loss.
Loss doesn’t resolve so easily; it settles into the environment of one’s life, resurfacing when it chooses. In the stillness, he finds himself listening for something he can’t quite define, a sense of peace and renewal.
Val d’Orcia’s Environment
The environment of Val d’Orcia, with its rolling hills, cypress-lined lanes, and hilltop villages, is a character in its own right. The Monte Amiata massif, dormant and volcanic, looms in the distance.
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As Savage walks through the vineyards, he is struck by the richness of the earth and the metallic scent of the air. He lies back between rows of rootstock and watches the stars, twinkling indifferently, while the call of an apennine wolf carries across the valley, long and thin.
In the end, Savage’s journey through Val d’Orcia is one of exploration and reflection, a journey into the heart of loss and continuity. The voice that his daughter heard in the olive orchard remains a mystery, but it serves as a reminder of the power of the unseen to shape our lives and our understanding of the world around us.
Savage’s experience in Val d’Orcia has a profound impact on him, and he begins to see the world in a different light. He realizes that the natural world has the power to heal and transform us, and that the voices of the past can still be heard in the present.
The Unesco World Heritage Site designation has helped to preserve the unique culture and environment of Val d’Orcia, and Savage’s journey is a sign of the importance of preserving our cultural heritage. The site’s preservation is a reminder that our actions have consequences, and that we must be mindful of the impact we have on the world around us.
As Savage reflects on his journey, he is reminded of the importance of taking the time to appreciate the beauty of the world around us. The environment of Val d’Orcia, with its rolling hills and cypress-lined lanes, is a reminder that there is still beauty in the world, and that it is worth fighting to preserve.
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The Monte Amiata massif stands as a sentinel over the valley, a reminder of the power and majesty of the natural world.
Savage’s journey through Val d’Orcia comes to an end, but the memories and lessons he learned will stay with him forever. The voice that his daughter heard in the olive orchard will remain a mystery, but it will always serve as a reminder of the power of the unseen to shape our lives and our understanding of the world around us.
The region’s unique culture and environment have been preserved for future generations, thanks to the efforts of those who have worked to protect and preserve the area. Savage’s journey is a reminder that our actions have consequences, and that we must be mindful of the impact we have on the world around us.
In the stillness of the Tuscan countryside, Savage finds a sense of peace and renewal. The environment of Val d’Orcia, with its rolling hills and cypress-lined lanes, is a reminder that there is still beauty in the world, and that it is worth fighting to preserve.